The most important objectives in successful machine embroidery are stabilizing and hooping your fabric correctly. Next comes your needle, tension and design sense. Last of all interfacing your fabric and preventing hoop burn.
Addressing all the above elements will create a successful embroidery design every time.
STABILIZING SENSE:
Jonny Seww Multi-Purpose Iron-on Stabilizing paper, a true stabilizer, is all you need for all types of fabric. Every square inch of your fabric is stabilized because of its thermo characteristics. Your stabilizing sheet should be about 2" to 3" larger than your hoop. To increase the size of Jonny Seww Stabilizer iron two pieces together. You can re-use the stabilizer again by pressing a scrap piece of stabilizer over the existing hole. No need to use a new sheet! When attaching the fabric to the stabilizer PRESS by tapping your iron in an up-and-down motion on the fabric. Ironing causes stretching and distortion.
Install the proper needle, set the correct tension for the fabric before you begin. Test stitching is always a benefit because of the cost of fabric today. The Jonny Seww Embroidery Template Kit has been designed to help you accomplish this. You can also save your test designs for future use such as appliquéing.
All this and much more is described in the Embroidery Kit.
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HOOPING SENSE:
Your hoop is designed to hold the stabilizer and fabric during the embroidery process. The outer hoop holds the tension and the inner hoop secures the stabilizer and fabric. The screw is used to tighten or loosen the hoop tension. Improper hooping can cause puckering and gaps. Use the smallest size hoop to accommodate the design. Too much fabric in the hoop will cause the design to bounce around.
Do not use an ironing board as a hooping surface because it is too soft and will cause distortions. Use a solid table and loosen the screw to its maximum. Align the fabric with the notches on the hoop before you tighten your screw, place the inner frame into the hoop and push it in with one push to stop the fabric from moving around. Gently tighten the screw. With the Jonny Seww stabilizer you can gently tug on the fabric which is adhered to the stabilizer to tighten. The fabric and stabilizer should be taunt like a drumhead.
Hoops distort over time. It's wise to have two hoops of your favourite size. One for heavier fabrics and the other for lighter, more delicate fabrics such as silk and lightweight knits etc.
Hoopless Embroidery: The instruction sheet in the Jonny Seww's Press-on Release Pack describes how to make a template for the hoopless embroidery method. Press your fabric to the Jonny Seww Multi-Purpose Iron-on Stabilizer inside the hooped area only and hoop the stabilizer leaving the fabric free. Ideal for Velvets, Terrycloth, Polar Fleece, Sherpa, Denim etc.
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NEEDLE SIZE AND POINT:
Three needle sizes are required most of the time:
75/11 for lightweight fabrics such as silk, netting, organza, batiste or light cotton, etc.
80/12 is a good all-purpose size for most fabrics.
90/14 for terrycloth, Sherpa, denim, twill etc.
Use a ballpoint needle for knits and a sharp point for wovens.
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TENSION:
When your machine tension is too tight it will pull the stitches and your bobbin thread will rise to the top. Check for this problem by sewing out some narrow stitches or satin stitches. If you feel the tension may be too tight consult your manual and adjust accordingly.
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DESIGN SENSE:
Not every design can be used on every type of fabric. A dense design does not work well on knits. Use a design with fewer fill stitches on lightweight fabrics or a loose unstable weave.
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INTERFACE FABRIC:
We wash and dry our clothing and over time it is hard on the embroidered fabric. Interface your embroidery designs with a light-weight interfacing such as Jonny Seww's Multi-Sew Fabric. Cut a piece approximately the size of your design. Example if your size is 4" x 4" cut a 4-1/4" square of interfacing. Depending on your design and fabric you can: (1) centre your interfacing on the stabilizer, lightly press, place your fashion fabric on top and press again or (2) place a piece of the Multi-Seww on the dull side of your stabilizer. Iron two strips of Jonny Seww 1" Tape to either side to hold in place. Press your fabric to the shiny side. Hoop your fabric and begin embroidering. On completion cut away the excess Multi Seww Fabric and remove the stabilizer.
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HOOP BURN:
Remember, leaving garments hooped longer than necessary will increase hoop burn. Use a piece of Jonny Seww Multi-Sew Fabric on top of your fashion fabric to prevent hoop burn. Cut a piece of Multi-Seww about 2" to 3" larger than your hoop. Centre the inner hoop and trace the hoop outline. Draw a second line inside the first about 1/2" away. Cut out the middle. Press your fashion fabric to the Jonny Seww Stabilizer, place your Multi-Seww hoop-burn-protector template on top and hoop as usual.
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